We are going to be using www.6thgenaccord.com for our 2000 Honda Accord sedan project to seek parts, advice and  more. We hope to meet a few friends and more.  Our username is WOTAccord.  We have made a post on there seeking support and help if anyone is interested it can be found here

We are looking for support with products and supply your name as credit or free advertising for your company in exchange.

The contact for this project is :

Justin VanBlargan Editor In Chief @ info@wotmagazine.com

We partnered up with Borla Exhaust to fit a 2004 Honda Accord Borla  Exhaust Cat-Back to our 2000 Honda Accord Ex Sedan. We looked all over the market for something throaty yet clean looking and we have always liked the sound of Borla .We took our car to our local exhaust specialists show called Exhaust Special-T’s in Muskegon,MI. Check out the gallery to see that basically all was needed was some work with the flange and extending the mid pipe. Its hard to believe all the bends were basically the same.

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We started with a 6,000K kit from HIDExtra (www.hidextra.com) for our low beams. Its a pretty easy plug and play kit. You plug the ballasts into the stock oem headlight hardness and then theres 3 plugs on each bulb that are color coded to match and you like the bulbs into the headlight housing and your on your way to a classy look and brighter night. Scope out the photos!

Have you ever wanted a aftermarket rim for your rig that not only has the show status of a aftermarket rim but also the durability of a off-road rim that can take anything you throw at it? Ultra Wheels has the answer with a affordable Wheel called the Ultra Motorsports Rogue Wheel. These are a affordable wheel that can be found at (http://www.ultrawheel.com/wheel_detail.cfm?brand=1&id=390). We put these wheels to the test by putting them on our 1995 Chevy S10 Blazer project and took it through snow, mud, water and more . These wheels still held up like the day we put them on.

Some of the Wheel Specs Includle:

Size: 15×10 , 15×8 , 16×8 , 17×10 , 17×8 , 18×8.5Head on over to www.ultrawheel.com and tell them WOT Magazine sent  you!

Tools needed:

Screwdriver

Extra set of hands

Step 1: Lay out everything you recieved in the box from ROLA

 

The Screws come provided by ROLA USA

Step 2 : Intersect the front half of the rack and the rear and secure with screws

Step 3:Attach the air dam with the supplied screws and  take your extra set of hands and raise the ROLA Roof Rack on top your roof, you must have a OEM roof rack to attach this rack. Your stock rack bars should be spread with atleast 56 inches in between.

Step 4: Secure the rack to your OEM rack using the supplied brackets shown above making sure the rubber is underneath your ROLA rack for cushion and tight the screws securely. ENJOY your ROLA Rack

Source: www.rolaproducts.com

Common Problems With The OEM System

Vacuum Actuator

The colder the temperature, the longer it will take to engage.

If the front differential becomes submerged, the TLA temperature will cool and the 4-wheel drive will disengage.

The TLA unit can cause excessive wear on internal components in the differential and may cause other electrical problems.

Our kit came with the following tools:

Handle, Cable, Dash Bracket, Dash Bracket (94-up pickups and 95-up SUV’s), Dash Brace, Firewall Grommet and Allen wrench and all mounting screws and brackets.

The first step to installing this kit is to jack up the vehicle. Support your vehicles frame with the front wheels fully of the ground and at full travel. Use jack stands and all the safety precautions. Failure to raise the vehicle so that front axle fully drops will void the warranty and may cause the cable to have damage.

Special tools needed:

T-30 and T-40 torx male drivers (required on 94+)

Unibit #3 for 11/16” hole

7MM and 10MM socket drivers

3/32 Allen Wrench

Installation instructions for 94-UP S10,S15 Pickup and 95-UP Blazer/Jimmy

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1.  Remove the air intake assembly and the front protective skid plat to allow easy access to route the cable
2. Remove the three screws from the left side center dash lower panel and the screws from the front (dash edge) of the left foot panel to allow access to the torx headed screw
3. Remove the torx bolt and replace with the 6MM-1.00x35MM bolt and washer that came in the kit. Install the dash mount bracket with the open slot under the bolt and washer. Then tighten the bolt.
4. With the dash mount bracket used as a guide drill a 5/32” hole through the dash support. Install a #10×1” sheet metal screw and tighten. Reinstall the panel screws, If you miss the dash brace you can cut the left of the multi-hole strap and install the u-nut to secure the left side using a #10×1” sheet metal screw
5. Cut a large hole in the firewall insulation 3” below the steering column and 2” to the right of the wire. Use a unibit to drill an 11/16: hole through the firewall.
6. Remove the nut and washer from the cable. Route the cable through the dash bracket and install the washer and nut before sliding the cable through the firewall hole.
7. Cut the provided rubber grommet on one side to form a “C” and thread it in the firewall hole around the cable. Tighten the cable nut to 10 ft-lbs.

 

Cable Routing:

1. Locate the vacuum actuator and twist the OE cable end retaining spring located on the actuator shaft to release the cable from the actuator. Squeeze the plastic retaining tabs on the cable to remove the cable from the actuator bracket. Ours was under our battery tray which needed to be removed.
2. The OE actuator can remain intact but we removed ours.
3. At the differential locate the actuator housing under the vehicle. Pull the rubber cable grommet back off of the steel cable fitting.
4. Disconnect the steel cable fitting from the actuator housing
5. Disconnect the wire harness from the housing
6.  Disconnect the wire harness clamp
7. Disconnect the housing from the differential by removing the three bolts that retain it.
8. Pull the housing away from the differential. Until the internal spring clip is exposed (like the one on the actuator). Twist the spring to release the cable end and remove the assembly from the differential. The housing will be reused; the cable will not.
9.   Loosely install the OE housing on the new cable end by threading the fitting into the housing a couple of turns
10.  Ensure that the cable button is in all the way. Install the housing and cable by aligning the cable end in the differential shaft until the cable end is engaged in the retaining spring. Pull on the cable/housing to ensure that the cable end is engaged.
11.  Reattach the housing to the differential with the OE Bolts and torque to 25 ft-lbs
12.  Tighten the cable fitting into the housing until the cable is completely seated. This is indicated by wiggling the cable while tightening the fitting. When the cable stops moving it is seated fully.
13.  Re-attach the electrical wires and the connector to the housing.

 

Review:

4×4 Posi-Lok replaces the vacuum actuator with a cable operated actuator seems to you in control of the engagement from inside the cab. After engaging the transfer case, a one inch pull of the 4×4 Posi-Lok cable connects the right front axle to the intermediate shaft using the shift collar and fork, and 4-wheel drive is engaged extremely quick! Simply reverse the procedure to disengage 4-wheel drive . This thing has to be the best investment anyone can make and you finally get a option of 2 wheel lo. No matter how cold it is ,it engages. It also prevents from a actuator or vacuum switch from going out. This is a great product for anyone looking to protect their rigs investment and 4×4 system in today’s rough and cold conditions.

Check out www.4x4posi-lok.com

If you want improved stopping power with just a pad change, this is the perfect pad choice. This refined version of the famous EBC Yellowstuff race formulation is now available in pad designs to fit popular American trucks/pick-ups and many Asian and European built 4x4s. This fast growing market for improved horsepower trucks and oversize wheel conversions has thrown up a black hole requiring a performance pad to fit these makes and models that will stop even the fastest driver in a heartbeat. Average friction coefficient 0.5 with similar dust to original pads and the dust is the same or perhaps slightly more than many original pads, this is NOT a low dust pad.

The rotors :

The dimple drilled rotor was invented by EBC back in the 90′s and has been imitated by many because of its ability to offer pad degassing without “Through Drilling” disc or rotor holes which has been shown to promote rotor cracks.

The wide aperture slots on the EBC units actually draw cool air under the brake pad and rotor interface and help cool the temperatures of the pad contact which can shoot up to well over 1000 degrees at the very heart of the brake pad during heavy braking and can cause brake fade or loss of brake effect.

These “Full sweep” slots on the EBC Sport Brake rotor also help remove dirt dust debris and water from the braking area but without doubt the MAIN benefit of such sport rotors is their ability to maintain a flat and parallel pad surface throughout the lifetime of the pads.

Installing the brakes is pretty straight forward but we figured we would show step by step for some, this was done on a 1995 Chevy S10 Blazer 4×4:

First thing’s first you need to break the lugnuts loose and jack up the truck

We used a impact with a 19MM socket to do so

Once you have the truck securely jacked up and on a jackstand you can remove the wheel to access the braking system

You to then remove the caliper, and I must say if you have never removed it or it hasnt in a while you might have some issues like we did. We used a Metric allen wrench. I can’t really tell you the size since our allen wrench didnt say one, but find the one that fits.

The bolts look like this once out, theres two.

You can now remove the caliper, rotor and pads  and it should look like this:

We then needed to compress the calipers piston for the new pads, being we don’t have a brake piston caliper a c-clamp and your old pad will work wonders:

Once compressed its time to seat your pads

We then install the rotor onto the hub and clean it with some brake cleaner to remove the oils from packaging.

The finished result before putting the tire back on !

Review: The braking force over stock is amazing, the dust isnt that bad from the pads and we must say the braking force in the pedal is 3x greater! We reccomend EBC Brakes to anyone looking for a afforable upgrade that makes a big difference. Check out www.ebcbrakes.com today!

Our good friends over at EGR USA (www.egrusa.com) hooked us up with a set of EGR Vent Visors for our 1995 Chevy Blazer Project That is undergoing a trail/off-road transformation. We liked this product due to the fact that it lets you get some fresh air in your cabin without rolling the whole window down especially in the cold winter weather we have here in Michigan. The other benefit to this project is it gives the project a more sportier appearance. The install is straight forward :

Step 1: Remove all residue and dirt from truck/suv’s door frame

Step 2: Use the supplied alcohol pads to run down the mounting surface

step 3: test fit and then remove some of the red backing tape on each end and press the the vent visor in place to hold

step 4: slowly press the visor on while pulling the red tape off on a slight angle

step 5: once the red tap is removed and the 3m tape is adheared to the surface press the visor fully in place

step 6: Enjoy!

Like we said very simple yet to install and a very inexpensive upgrade for any vechile . Check out www.egrusa.com today and tell them WOT Magazine sent you!  We love the straight forward install and the fitment is outstanding!